Me gusta llamar sobresaliente al fotoprotector solar porque es el que ‘sobresale’, es decir, el que más nota tiene, el cosmético que más cuenta.

Siempre hago hincapié a mis pacientes sobre la importancia del fotoprotector facial.

Hoy en día, cada vez son más los que han conseguido convertir su rutina cosmética en un hábito diario, pero, aún son muchos los que en su rutina incluyen limpiadores, contornos, cremas…, pero, ¿y el fotoprotector facial?. Debemos tener claro que cualquier rutina cosmética no será efectiva si no protegemos la piel del sol durante el día, y que el sol revierte a pasos agigantados eso que estamos intentando conseguir con el resto de cosméticos.

Efectos de la radiación solar sobre la piel

Para empezar me gustaría hacer mención especial a los beneficios que tiene la radiación solar en nuestro organismo. No podemos olvidar que el sol es una fuente de vida y que en exposiciones controladas provoca diferentes beneficios en nuestra salud. El tiempo recomendado se encuentra entre 10-15 minutos en verano y 130 minutos en invierno.

Por el contrario, en exposiciones excesivas, o sin control, pueden causar efectos perjudiciales en nuestra piel.

En las últimas décadas se ha producido un aumento en la incidencia de cáncer de piel en Europa, incluida España, y en otros países desarrollados con predominio de población de raza blanca. Este incremento se atribuye, en parte, al aumento de la exposición a los rayos ultravioleta y luz visible, especialmente durante la infancia. Fotoproteger a nuestros hijos es una tarea obligada. La salud de su piel en el futuro dependerá, en gran parte, de cómo le protejamos desde pequeños. Y no solo protegerles, sino educarles en la fotoprotección, para que ellos lo hagan cuando sean adultos de manera casi instintiva. Este debería ser el objetivo común.

La elastosis solar, hiperpigmentación, deshidratación de la piel y envejecimiento de la piel son algunos de los efectos a corto plazo de esta sobreexposición solar.

Formas cosméticas de los fotoprotectores faciales que también cuentan

El cuidado facial merece una atención diferencial por sus necesidades especiales, ya que la piel de la cara es más sensible que la del resto del cuerpo debido a su exposición constante a los agentes externos. El uso de productos adecuados para la protección ayuda a mantener sus cualidades y a ralentizar los signos del fotoenvejecimiento.

Para garantizar que el producto permanezca sobre la piel durante el mayor tiempo posible, y que no desaparezca por el arrastre del agua o del sudor, las fórmulas más utilizadas son las cremas y leches de fase externa oleosa (A/O). Para la zona del contorno de los ojos, nariz y labios tenemos las barras o sticks, o las pastas grasas anhidras que también incluyan hidratantes y protectores para evitar la aparición de grietas y resecamiento.

El empleo de estos filtros solares no queda limitado a los productos solares. Actualmente, la mayoría de los cosméticos faciales (cremas hidratantes, nutritivas, protectores labiales y maquillajes), e incluso los acondicionadores capilares, los incluyen en su formulación como un valor añadido para garantizar una protección diaria.

Cremas hidratantes y maquillajes

La cara y el cuello, que son las zonas más expuestas de nuestro cuerpo a la radiación solar, son los lugares donde más se manifiestan los signos cutáneos de daño solar (piel seca, engrosada, con el poro dilatado y arrugas profundas). Por este motivo, se recomienda la utilización diaria de cremas hidratantes y maquillajes para el rostro con un FPS mínimo de 20.

Protectores labiales

La misión de un buen protector labial es formar sobre los labios una película que los cubra uniformemente y los proteja de las radiaciones UV del sol. Es una de las zonas olvidadas y todos deberíamos llevar con nosotros un fotoprotector labial.

Aftersun

La protección postsolar está especialmente formulada para disminuir las agresiones solares sobre la piel. Estos productos deben tener propiedades calmantes, antiinflamatorias, hidratantes, suavizantes y regeneradoras del epitelio cutáneo.

¿Cuál es la manera correcta de aplicar un fotoprotector?

  • Han de aplicarse en casa.
  • Deben aplicarse sobre la piel bien seca.
  • Aplicar media hora antes de la exposición al sol.
  • Debe aplicarse generosamente cubriendo la superficie cutánea.

¿Cómo protegernos correctamente?

  • Usando gafas de sol para evitar los daños oculares producidos por la radiación solar.
  • Buscando la sombra.
  • Utilizando sombreros y ropa que cubran las zonas delicadas del cuerpo.
  • Aplicando correctamente el fotoprotector.

Aunque tendemos a pensar que la radiación solar sólo se propaga durante los despejados, también está presente en los días nublados. Cuando el cielo está despejado, la radiación es directa y predomina en las horas centrales del día. Sin embargo, cuando el sol está oculto por las nubes o cuando va anocheciendo, la radiación es difusa, pero, no por ello deja de ser dañina. Por este motivo, hay que protegerse de los rayos del sol siempre, tanto en invierno como en verano y tanto en días nublados como despejados.

¿Cómo elegir nuestro fotoprotector facial ideal?

  • Si tu piel presenta brillos, o tienes tendencia acneica, elige siempre un fotoprotector oil-free.
  • Si tu piel es normal o seca, y te gustan las cremas más nutritivas, elige fórmulas que contengan ingredientes hidratantes, como por ejemplo el ácido hialurónico.
  • Un SPF50+ siempre será ‘caballo ganador’ en cualquier caso.
  • Aunque no es prioritario, en mi caso, la sensorialidad también suma, elige un fotoprotector que te guste como huela y como se absorba, disfrutarás a la hora de aplicarlo y lo harás con más gusto.
  • Si aún así sigues teniendo dudas a la hora de elegir tu fotoprotector ideal, consulta siempre a tu farmacéutico especialista en dermocosmética.

No hay que olvidar…

  • Fotoproteger las zonas más sensibles como las orejas, los empeines, la nuca, la coronilla, las axilas, etc.
  • Repetir la aplicación cada dos horas o tras transpirar, bañarse o secarse con la toalla (aunque se trate de productos ‘waterproof’, no resisten el roce de la toalla).
  • Una vez abiertos, utilizar en el periodo indicado por el fabricante.

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